Corsica on foot: breathtaking scenery

Corsica, the "Island of Beauty," offers hikers a paradise of diverse landscapes and challenging trails. From rugged mountain peaks to pristine coastal paths, this Mediterranean gem boasts some of Europe's most spectacular hiking routes. Whether you're an experienced trekker or a casual walker, Corsica's network of trails provides breathtaking vistas, unique ecosystems, and rich cultural heritage at every turn.

GR20: Corsica's legendary long-distance hiking trail

The GR20, often dubbed "Europe's toughest long-distance trail," is the crown jewel of Corsican hiking. This legendary route traverses the island's mountainous spine, offering unparalleled views and a true test of endurance. Stretching approximately 180 kilometers, the GR20 attracts thousands of adventurers each year, drawn by its reputation for rugged beauty and physical challenge.

Route sections: from Calenzana to Conca

The GR20 is typically divided into two main sections: the northern and southern parts. The northern section, from Calenzana to Vizzavona, is considered the more difficult half, featuring steep ascents and rocky terrain. The southern part, from Vizzavona to Conca, while still challenging, offers slightly gentler landscapes and more forested areas.

Hikers usually tackle the trail from north to south, starting in Calenzana and ending in Conca. This direction allows for a gradual acclimatization to the trail's demands. The route is marked with red and white painted stripes, guiding trekkers through a series of spectacular landscapes, including:

• The granite peaks of Monte Cinto, Corsica's highest mountain
• The lush Vizzavona forest, a welcome respite at the trail's midpoint
• The dramatic Cirque de la Solitude, a steep and rocky passage (now bypassed due to safety concerns)
• The picturesque Lac de Nino, surrounded by pozzines (high-altitude peat bogs)

Technical difficulty and required equipment

The GR20 is not for the faint-hearted. It requires a high level of fitness, sure-footedness, and experience in mountain environments. Hikers should be prepared for long days of strenuous walking, often over 8-10 hours, with significant elevation gains and losses. The terrain varies from rocky paths to scrambles over boulders, with some sections requiring the use of hands for balance and support.

Essential equipment for tackling the GR20 includes:

• Sturdy, ankle-supporting hiking boots with good grip
• Lightweight, breathable clothing suitable for variable weather conditions
• A quality backpack (30-40 liters) with rain cover
• Trekking poles for stability on steep and uneven terrain
• Sufficient water capacity (at least 2 liters) and water purification methods

Optimal seasons and weather considerations

The best time to hike the GR20 is typically from mid-June to late September. During this period, mountain huts are open, and weather conditions are generally more favorable. However, even in summer, weather in Corsica's mountains can be unpredictable. Sudden storms, strong winds, and occasional snow on higher peaks are not uncommon.

Hikers should always check weather forecasts before setting out and be prepared for rapid changes in conditions. It's crucial to start early in the day to avoid afternoon thunderstorms, which are frequent in the mountains. The shoulder seasons of late May and early October can offer quieter trails but come with increased risks of adverse weather and closed facilities.

Refuge accommodations and camping regulations

Along the GR20, a network of mountain huts ( refuges ) provides basic accommodation for hikers. These refuges are spaced at intervals that correspond to typical daily stages of the trail. While they offer shelter and the opportunity to lighten your pack, they can be crowded during peak season, and advance booking is highly recommended.

Most refuges offer:

• Dormitory-style sleeping areas (bring your own sleeping bag)
• Basic meals (often with the option to pre-order)
• Water refill stations
• Information on trail conditions and weather forecasts

Camping is allowed near most refuges, but wild camping is prohibited in certain protected areas. Hikers planning to camp should check regulations for specific areas and always practice Leave No Trace principles to protect Corsica's fragile mountain ecosystems.

Coastal paths: mare e monti and mare a mare circuits

While the GR20 may be Corsica's most famous trail, the island's coastal paths offer equally stunning experiences with a different flavor. The Mare e Monti (Sea and Mountains) and Mare a Mare (Sea to Sea) circuits provide more accessible alternatives to the GR20, showcasing Corsica's diverse landscapes from rugged coastlines to forested hills.

Mare e Monti North: Calenzana to Cargèse

The Mare e Monti North trail stretches approximately 140 kilometers from Calenzana to Cargèse, offering a perfect blend of mountain and coastal scenery. This trail is less demanding than the GR20 but still provides a challenging and rewarding experience for hikers.

Key features of the Mare e Monti North include:

• Spectacular views of the Balagne region's olive groves and picturesque villages
• The dramatic Fango Valley, known for its pristine rivers and diverse flora
• Coastal sections with breathtaking views of the Gulf of Porto
• The opportunity to explore traditional Corsican villages like Galeria and Girolata

This trail can typically be completed in 10 to 12 days, with accommodations ranging from gîtes d'étape (simple hostels) to small hotels in villages along the route.

Mare e Monti South: Porticcio to Propriano

The southern variant of the Mare e Monti trail offers a different perspective on Corsica's coastal landscapes. Starting from Porticcio near Ajaccio, this trail winds its way south to Propriano, covering about 110 kilometers of varied terrain.

Highlights of the Mare e Monti South include:

• The beautiful Gulf of Ajaccio with its crystal-clear waters
• Ancient Genoese watchtowers dotting the coastline
• The rugged Taravo Valley with its traditional villages and chestnut forests
• Secluded beaches perfect for a refreshing swim after a day's hike

This trail is generally considered less strenuous than its northern counterpart and can be completed in about a week, making it an excellent choice for those with limited time or less hiking experience.

Mare a Mare Nord: Cargèse to Moriani

The Mare a Mare Nord trail cuts across the island from west to east, connecting the Mediterranean coasts. This trail offers a unique perspective on Corsica's interior, traversing through remote villages and diverse landscapes rarely seen by casual tourists.

Key aspects of the Mare a Mare Nord include:

• A journey through the heart of Corsica, showcasing its rural heritage
• Visits to historic towns like Corte, the island's cultural capital
• Panoramic views of both the western and eastern coasts
• Encounters with traditional Corsican life in mountain villages

The full trail covers about 140 kilometers and typically takes 10 to 12 days to complete. It's an excellent choice for those interested in Corsican culture and history, as well as natural beauty.

Flora and fauna highlights along coastal routes

Corsica's coastal trails offer hikers the chance to experience the island's rich biodiversity. The Mediterranean maquis, a dense shrubland characteristic of the region, dominates much of the landscape, filling the air with the fragrant scents of herbs like thyme, rosemary, and lavender.

Notable flora and fauna you might encounter include:

• The Corsican Red Deer, a subspecies found only on the island
• Various orchid species, particularly abundant in spring
• The Corsican Nuthatch, an endemic bird species
• Mouflon, wild sheep native to Corsica and Sardinia
• Marine life such as dolphins and whales visible from coastal vantage points

These coastal paths provide an excellent opportunity for nature enthusiasts and birdwatchers to observe Corsica's unique ecosystems up close.

Mountain treks: exploring Corsica's interior peaks

Beyond the GR20 and coastal circuits, Corsica offers numerous opportunities for mountain trekking that showcase the island's rugged interior. These trails range from day hikes to multi-day expeditions, allowing hikers to explore some of the most dramatic landscapes in the Mediterranean.

One of the most popular mountain treks is the ascent of Monte Cinto, Corsica's highest peak at 2,706 meters. This challenging day hike rewards climbers with panoramic views of the island and, on clear days, glimpses of the Italian mainland. The trek typically starts from the Haut Asco ski station and involves a steep climb over rocky terrain.

Other notable mountain treks include:

• The Aiguilles de Bavella, a series of dramatic granite spires offering various hiking options
• The Restonica Valley, known for its pristine mountain lakes and challenging trails
• Monte Renoso, the highest peak in southern Corsica, offering sweeping views of the island

These mountain treks often require a higher level of fitness and experience than coastal walks. Hikers should be prepared for steep ascents, exposed ridges, and rapidly changing weather conditions. Proper equipment, including sturdy boots, warm layers, and navigation tools, is essential for safely enjoying Corsica's mountain environments.

Historical trails: following ancient paths and transhumance routes

Corsica's hiking trails are not just pathways through nature; they're also windows into the island's rich history and cultural heritage. Many of today's popular hiking routes follow ancient paths used for centuries by shepherds, traders, and even smugglers.

Sentier des Douaniers: coastal customs officers' path

The Sentier des Douaniers, or Customs Officers' Path, is a historic coastal trail that once served as a patrol route for customs officers monitoring maritime traffic and preventing smuggling. Today, it offers hikers a spectacular journey along Corsica's rugged coastline.

Key features of the Sentier des Douaniers include:

• Dramatic cliffs and hidden coves along the Cap Corse peninsula
• Ancient Genoese watchtowers offering panoramic sea views
• Pristine beaches accessible only by foot
• Charming fishing villages with opportunities to sample fresh seafood

This trail can be hiked in sections or as part of a longer coastal trek, providing a unique blend of natural beauty and historical significance.

Tra Mare e Monti: traditional shepherd routes

The Tra Mare e Monti trails follow ancient transhumance routes used by shepherds to move their flocks between winter pastures on the coast and summer grazing areas in the mountains. These paths offer hikers a glimpse into Corsica's pastoral heritage and traditional way of life.

Hiking the Tra Mare e Monti routes allows you to:

• Experience the diversity of Corsican landscapes from sea level to high mountains
• Visit remote mountain villages where traditional practices are still alive
• Discover ancient stone shelters ( bergeries ) used by shepherds
• Observe the unique Corsican cheese-making traditions

These trails often intersect with other hiking routes, allowing for flexible itineraries that can be tailored to different interests and fitness levels.

Genoese bridges and fortifications along hiking paths

Throughout Corsica, hikers will encounter remnants of the island's Genoese period, including well-preserved bridges and fortifications. These structures, dating back to the 15th and 16th centuries, are not only historical landmarks but often serve as crucial crossing points on modern hiking trails.

Notable Genoese structures along hiking routes include:

• The Ponte Vecchiu in the Restonica Valley, a picturesque single-arch bridge
• The Genoese bridges of the Tavignano and Fango valleys
• Coastal watchtowers like Tour de Sénèque near Porto

These historical elements add depth to the hiking experience, allowing trekkers to connect with Corsica's rich past while enjoying its natural beauty.

Biodiversity and conservation: Corsica's unique ecosystems on foot

Corsica's diverse landscapes harbor a wealth of biodiversity, much of which is endemic to the island. Hiking through these varied ecosystems offers a unique opportunity to observe and appreciate Corsica's natural heritage while also raising awareness about conservation efforts.

Endemic species in Corsica's nature reserves

Corsica boasts several nature reserves and protected areas that serve as sanctuaries for endemic flora and fauna. The Scandola Nature Reserve, a UNESCO World Heritage site, is a prime example, protecting both marine and terrestrial ecosystems.

Some of the endemic species hikers might encounter include:

• The Corsican Nuthatch ( Sitta whiteheadi ), found only in the island's pine forests
• The Corsican Swallowtail butterfly ( Papilio hospiton )
• Various endemic plant species, such as the Corsican Hellebore and Corsican Pine

Guided nature walks in these protected areas can provide in-depth insights into Corsica's unique biodiversity and ongoing conservation efforts.

Impact of tourism on protected areas

While hiking is an excellent way to appreciate Corsica's natural beauty, the increasing popularity of outdoor tourism also presents challenges for conservation. The high foot traffic on popular trails, particularly the GR20, has led to concerns about erosion, waste management, and disturbance to wildlife.

To address these issues, local authorities and conservation organizations have implemented various measures, including:

• Trail maintenance and erosion control projects
• Visitor education programs on responsible hiking practices
• Restrictions on camping and fires in sensitive areas
• Improved waste management systems at mountain refuges

Sustainable hiking practices in fragile environments

Hikers play a crucial role in preserving Corsica's natural environments. By adopting sustainable practices, visitors can minimize their impact and help protect the island's ecosystems for future generations.

Key principles for sustainable hiking in Corsica include:

• Adhering to Leave No Trace principles, packing out all waste
• Staying on marked trails to prevent vegetation damage and erosion
• Respecting wildlife by maintaining a

safe distance and avoiding feeding or approaching them

• Using biodegradable products and avoiding harmful chemicals
• Supporting local conservation initiatives through responsible tourism

Practical considerations for corsican hiking adventures

Trail marking systems and navigation techniques

Navigating Corsica's trails requires some preparation and understanding of local marking systems. Most major trails, including the GR20 and Mare e Monti circuits, use a standardized marking system:

• Red and white stripes indicate GR (Grande Randonnée) trails
• Orange markings are used for the Mare e Monti and Mare a Mare routes
• Yellow markings typically denote local or shorter trails

While these markings are generally reliable, it's essential to carry detailed topographic maps and a compass. GPS devices can be helpful but shouldn't be solely relied upon due to potential battery issues or signal loss in remote areas. Have you considered learning basic map reading and compass navigation skills before your trip?

Local transportation and access to trailheads

Accessing trailheads in Corsica can sometimes be challenging due to the island's rugged terrain and limited public transportation in rural areas. However, several options are available:

• Rental cars offer the most flexibility but may require careful navigation on narrow mountain roads
• Public buses connect major towns and some popular hiking areas, though schedules can be limited
• The Corsican railway provides scenic access to several hiking regions, including the Restonica Valley
• Taxi services and local shuttles are available in some areas, especially during peak season

It's advisable to plan your transportation in advance, especially if relying on public options. Some remote trailheads may require a combination of methods to access, much like piecing together a puzzle of Corsica's landscape.

Cultural etiquette in corsican mountain villages

Hiking in Corsica often involves passing through traditional mountain villages, where local customs and etiquette should be respected. Consider the following tips to ensure positive interactions:

• Greet locals with a friendly "Bonjour" or learn a few basic phrases in Corsican
• Respect private property and ask permission before photographing people or their homes
• Support local economies by purchasing supplies or meals in village shops and restaurants
• Dress modestly, especially when visiting churches or other sacred sites

Remember, these villages are not just picturesque stops on your journey but living communities with rich traditions. Approaching them with respect and curiosity can lead to meaningful cultural exchanges.

Emergency services and safety protocols in remote areas

While hiking in Corsica's remote areas offers unparalleled beauty, it also requires careful preparation for potential emergencies. Understanding local safety protocols and emergency services is crucial:

• The European emergency number 112 works throughout Corsica, connecting to local emergency services
• Mountain rescue services are well-organized but may take time to reach very remote areas
• Many mountain refuges have radio communication for emergencies
• Consider purchasing travel insurance that covers mountain rescue operations

Before setting out, always inform someone of your planned route and expected return time. In case of an emergency, stay calm and try to provide precise location information. Remember, in the mountains, weather can change rapidly – are you prepared to adjust your plans if conditions become unfavorable?

By considering these practical aspects and respecting both the natural environment and local communities, hikers can fully appreciate the breathtaking beauty and rich cultural heritage that Corsica's trails have to offer. Whether you're tackling the challenging GR20 or exploring coastal paths, Corsica promises an unforgettable adventure for those willing to lace up their boots and hit the trail.